− When creating products in our laboratory, our team and I are guided by medical knowledge about the skin and the latest research in the field of cosmetic ingredients. Our goal was to design cosmetics that will stay with their users regardless of passing fashion or trends. PH is a key word – both for the skin and its balance, as well as the effectiveness of the ingredients used in our recipes – says Nina Wiśniewska, creator of the Polish brand Ph. in an interview with “Wprost”. Doctor Dermocosmetics.
– I tested and analyzed the formulas I invented until, together with specialists, I managed to create biotechnologically advanced vegan products that can be used regardless of gender. Each of Ph. cosmetics I always check Doctor on my own skin, because only then am I sure that the product is as it should be. Sometimes I can test one product for up to three years, says Nina Wiśniewska. − Direct cooperation with consumers helped me understand what side effects are, why some cosmetics may cause allergies and how to use them correctly, she adds.
Based on experience in working mainly with problematic, acne-prone and aging skin, in cooperation with biotechnologist Anna Sienkiewicz, products from the Face&Body Retinal 0.05% and RetinALL IN ONE 0.1% series were created.
When talking about both lines, it is worth explaining what their main ingredient is retinal and who it is intended for.
Retinal, a derivative of vitamin A
Retinaldehyde, also called retinal, is a biologically active derivative of vitamin A. It is one of the best documented substances that slow down skin aging – the retinoid family. Retinal is an intermediate form between retinol and retinoic acid and requires only one transformation in the skin to retinoic acid – which means faster action, less loss of this valuable ingredient and (due to the slow release technology used in Ph.Doctor products) less skin irritation compared to with other retinoids.
Pure retinoic acid is not used in the composition of cosmetics because it is a compound included in the drug category (which is why anti-aging preparations, such as Ph.Doctor, use retinoic acid precursors). Compared to retinol, which requires two transformations to its active form, retinal requires only one transformation.
− Retinoids have a scientifically proven effect on the cell nucleus, thanks to which they are able to rebuild the skin (or more precisely its cells) by connecting to the appropriate receptors present in the cells. These are substances that influence all aging processes, including: they increase collagen production, but also stop its degradation, which begins after the age of 25. They reverse some of the visual signs of aging caused by exposure to ultraviolet radiation (part of solar radiation, UV), i.e. the so-called photoaging – explains Nina Wiśniewska.
In the case of anti-aging treatment with retinoids, the most important thing is to gradually build the skin’s tolerance to these substances. At the beginning of their use, some people experience temporary skin irritation (not everyone), manifesting itself, among others, peeling. – The formula of our products is composed to minimize the risk of irritation. And if they do occur, they are temporary and disappear when tolerance to the ingredient develops. Therefore, you should not be discouraged from using retinoids. These substances, let me emphasize once again, are extensively tested raw materials used in cosmetics and dermatology (medicinally) with proven effectiveness in research. It should be added that the desired effects of improving the skin condition require an average of 12 weeks of using retinoids – he adds.
Retinal has an intense yellow color, and its stabilized formula ensures effectiveness confirmed by testing for 12 months after opening the package.
A miracle ingredient not for everyone
Retinal has not only anti-aging properties, but also anti-acne properties. Eliminates the signs of aging – tightens and firms the skin and reduces discoloration. In addition, it reduces the visibility of fresh stretch marks, moisturizes the skin, improves its structure, smoothes and elasticizes it. This substance is used to treat patients suffering from acne (antibacterial effect), as well as dermatological problems such as blackheads, “kaszka” (white pimples), wrinkles, skin laxity, visible signs of photoaging, discoloration, perifollicular keratosis (keratosis pilaris). , the mentioned fresh stretch marks. Its use reduces transepidermal water loss. Retinal is a desirable raw material in cosmetics intended for mature skin.
Despite its long list of advantages, this substance is not for everyone. Contraindications to its use are mainly pregnancy.
Which product should I choose?
For people who are just starting their adventure with retinoids, Ph. Doctor offers a cream with a stable form of retinal FACE&BODY RetinALL 0.05%. It can be applied to the entire body or fresh stretch marks. After 12 weeks of regular use and facial skin tolerance is achieved, you can use a preparation with a higher concentration of retinal – face cream with a stable form of retinal RetinALL IN ONE 0.1%.
− It is worth adding that both preparations should be used on clean and dry skin, and that you should carefully read the step-by-step instructions for their use and take a look at the cosmetics blog, i.e. our knowledge base where you can find the articles I have written – explains the specialist.
Why so much caution? – Precision, accuracy and caution when using preparations with retinal is important because it is an active substance that acts deeply on skin cells, it is not an ordinary simple moisturizing substance, but has a strong anti-aging effect, and therefore may have undesirable – he emphasizes.
Those who already use other retinoids and need to change their cosmetics can start skin care with a face cream with a stable form of retinal, RetinALL IN ONE 0.1%. The retinal contained in it is highly stabilized, and the cream also contains the addition of tranexamic acid, also intended for skin with discolorations.
Healthy skin – not irritated, moisturized, radiant
The basis of healthy skin is the normalization of the sebaceous glands and the reconstruction of the hydrolipid barrier. Only such leather can cope with the challenges of today’s times.
– Living in a polluted environment, constant stress, low air humidity and smog pose a real challenge to the largest organ of our body. Taking care of the skin of our product users, we have selected the highest quality active ingredients, while trying to omit those that often cause allergic reactions (fragrances). Ph.Doctor cosmetics contain vegan raw materials, i.e. they are not of animal origin, the brand also ensures that each product passes the Safety Assessor check, also in terms of safety for pregnant and breastfeeding women. We do not stop at the current cosmetics line, we plan to create 20 new products. We meet the expectations of our clients, which motivates us to continuous development – sums up the founder Ph. Doctor Dermocsmetics.