I climbed the most dangerous tower in the world. This attraction should be illegal

Climbing to the top of the Ambuluwawa tower in Sri Lanka is like a nightmare, during which we feel increasing anxiety with every second. I’m not brave enough to do a bungee jump, but I’m not afraid of heights. Observation towers have previously seemed to me to be relatively boring family attractions, with a rather small dose of adrenaline and the obligatory coin-operated binoculars at the top. A short trip to the popular Ambuluwawa awakened fears in me that I had never known before, and when I went down, I was glad that it was all over. Will another tragedy happen in this place?

Ambuluwawa, the dangerous Miracle of Ceylon

Built in 2009, Ambuluwawa is one of the wonders of Ceylon, or at least that’s what the authors of the online guide called “Wonders of Ceylon” claim. Located in the small town of Gampola in the central part of the island, the tower was intended to be not only an ordinary tourist attraction, but also a symbol of the religious unity of Sri Lanka. “The goal was to create a unique space where people of different religious backgrounds could meet in the spirit of coexistence and mutual respect,” I read.

However, I did not expect that the authors of the project had such close encounters in mind. At its narrowest point, the steps leading to the top of the attraction are maybe forty centimeters wide. It is impossible for people going up and those going down to be able to cross them safely.

Queues to enter Rysy

Before I decided to come here, I saw Ambuluwawa in many photos and videos on Instagram. Travelers usually come here with selfie sticks, which allow them to record the climb from a wider angle, which further emphasizes its strange form. The tower is about 50 meters high, but due to its location on the top of a lonely mountain, it seems much higher. From a hill 1,087 meters above sea level, we can admire an impressive and unobstructed view of the surrounding villages and towns. The tower is really winding and resembles a drill slowly turning into the white clouds towering above it.

It is best to get to Ambuluwawa by tuk-tuk from Gampola or Kandy. The driver who brings me to the attraction unfortunately does not have permission to enter through the main gate, which is about a thirty-minute climb on an asphalt road from the entrance to the tower. Finally, on the man’s advice, I arrange to return to the vehicle two hours later, which turns out to be a very underestimated plan. Climbing the tower’s stairs is like waiting in a queue to enter Rysy – people in front, people in the back, and an abyss on the side. There is no escape from here, and there is no way to speed up the entry process. It takes me almost three hours to climb up the hill, conquer the tower and quickly return to the tuk-tuk (with a few-minute break for a photo session of a family of macaques crossing the road).

There is no control

While walking to the top of Ambuluwawa, I wondered who would fall first: me or my phone, which I’m desperately trying to take any photos of. The tourists around didn’t seem to be scared, or they were very good at hiding their emotions behind nervous laughter. It ends up being quite funny, as we all rub against each other as we climb the spiral stairs, trying to stay alive. The technique is simple – one person sticks tightly to the wall, the other walks next to it, holding tightly to the railing, which sometimes only reaches up to the knees. There are also small “caves” along the route that allow people coming down from the peak to pass through. They are located in the very core of the narrow tower, but people over 160 centimeters are unlikely to squeeze in here. However, what I’m most afraid of is not for myself or the phone, but for accidentally pushing someone. However, everyone seems to be thinking about the same thing, showing unusual caution for amused tourists.

The further up you go, the worse it gets. It is worth remembering this, especially at the beginning, when we still have a chance to withdraw. It is also good to define your own limits, because no one will do it for you. There is no control to check the number of people using the attractions at one time, there is no one to check the weight of tourists. Unfortunately, those who are too overweight may be a threat not only to themselves, but also to people around them.

A tragedy could happen here

Ambuluwawa is a very popular attraction, not necessarily of the “only for the brave” type. Although no one has ever died here (at least according to official information), there is no shortage of controversial opinions about it on the Internet. “This structure appears to have been built in an extremely unsafe manner. I’m afraid it may collapse and kill many people. Some recordings show that more than 50 people use the tower at the same time,” writes one of the tourists on the Reddit forum. He also draws attention to strong winds and micro-tremors of the Earth’s crust present in this part of the world, which may weaken the tower and consequently lead to a disaster. There are voices of the residents themselves who do not agree with the very lenient and careless approach of the authorities to the construction of this type of facilities. Visitors note the relentless wind that rocks the top of the structure even on clear days. If the weather changes suddenly, which is not unusual in the mountainous areas of the island, which is hit by two monsoons, panic may break out on the tower.

“Usually in Colombo, buildings of this height are constructed with the involvement of structural engineers who plan and approve the structure so that it is resistant to wind and even to some extent to earthquakes (…). Unfortunately, our government is far from proactive and until someone falls and dies because of a faulty tourist attraction, it will not take it seriously,” says one of the island’s residents.

“I’ve been there, I’ve climbed to the top, I won’t do it again. Absolutely terrifying. I have no idea who built it or how they obtained building permits, but it should be closed to visitors ASAP,” reads another negative review.

This type of attractions are not uncommon in Asia. Tourists from rich European countries, accustomed to long regulations, may be surprised by a rather frivolous approach to safety standards. Meanwhile, there may be barriers and warning signs at the top of the 33-meter cliff in Jastrzębia Góra, but they do not seem to have the intended effect. Tourists walk over them anyway to get to the edge of the hill. In the end, regardless of the imposed norms, we decide about our lives ourselves.